best of the brunch

It was the second last weekend before Christmas, which meant that, as far as my past experiences have demonstrated, we were going to spend Sunday afternoon pushing and shoving alongside millions of London shoppers who, like us, will also be trying to get their shopping done before the festive holiday season officially begins. The Chef and I were fully aware of this, but quite frankly we didn't have much of a choice.      


Certain that the day ahead wasn't going to be a pleasant or stress-free one, The Chef came up with the brilliant idea of boosting our energy levels with a brunch at Chris Corbin and Jeremy King's new restaurant, appropriately hailed as 'The New Wolseley'. 

It wasn't my intention to review The Delaunay, but seeing as I enjoyed my fried duck eggs with black and white puddings so much (mmmm, I know, my cholesterol levels have probably risen by 50% just thinking about it), I thought it would be a shame not to brag about it. After all, it's not like I offer up compliments as generously as I do my credit card to Selfridges. The Delaunay, which sits on the corner of Aldwych and Kingsway, is decked out in a familiar up-scale brasserie fashion we've come to expect from Corbin and King, and of course their legendary interior design mate David Collins. It's evident that some serious attention to detail has been paid to this 'grand European cafe'. There was nothing to not like about the black and white marble flooring, the sumptuous racing green banquettes and upholstery, dark wood and brass fittings with matching side lamps, the oversized antique train station clock, and as one would expect, some serious art. Although only on its third day of service, the staff was efficient, the crowd was smart, the service smooth, and the food, well, as far as brunch went, it was rather good. 

Admittedly I was surprised when we arrived at midday, to be informed that we only have an hour and a half on our table. Slowly but surely, diners started to fill up the spacious restaurant, and half an hour later it was packed. The brunch menu was classic but attractive. Eggs Benedict, Grilled Kipper, Omelette Arnold Bennett and Smoked Salmon Scrambled Eggs weren't anything particularly racy or saliva-inducing but they're also not the easiest things to get right. Breakfasts never are. The Chef had a steak tartare, which was good, though not without fault. The beef was chopped a little too finely and lacked a little acidity. Perhaps more capers, anchovies and a splash of tabasco would have given it that extra va va voom, but it was perfectly pleasant to eat. It was certainly better than a number of steak tartares I've had, but it still had a way to go in order to reach the standard of the Galvin brothers' version, which (aside from a one-off bespoke creation by The Chef, for me) is undoubtedly the best in London. My fried duck eggs were perfectly cooked. Rich gooey yolk oozed out to fuse harmoniously with salty, earthy and moist black and white puddings, while the fried bread lying lazily underneath soaked the warm bright orange liquid up greedily like a British tourist on holiday in Ibiza. It was a heavenly combination, if a tad too sickly. But I was greedy and finished it all anyway.The next hour on Regent Street was a struggle between trying not to trample on children and trying to ignore the fatty, yolky taste that formed a thin but palpable film, coating the inside of my mouth, throat and probably stomach as well. It seems I'd overdone it on the richness and it did not feel good. Having said that I'd happily go back next week for exactly the same thing. 55 Aldwych, London WC2B 4BB  Tel: +44 (0)20 7499 8558